Nicky Hoseck

Shipwrecks Of The Wild Coast:
A Ride Through History

While our horses traverse the Wild Coast with few difficulties, the same can’t be said of those trying to navigate the coastline by sea. The result? A coastline littered with shipwrecks - a testament to the rough seas, unpredictable weather conditions, and navigational difficulties that saw many an experienced seafarer blanch at the prospect of crossing this malevolent ocean. 

As we ride, we pass the sites of old wrecks, some marked by a ring of stones or a plaque, others unmarked and in danger of being forgotten were it not for the endless stories that circulate, each tale growing ever more elaborate with each retelling.

The Swirling Stories Of The Jacaranda Shipwreck

When Wild Coast Horses just started venturing up the coastline 20 years ago, the most prominent wreck, and a perfect photo op, was the notorious Jacaranda. Known as a coaster or shoot, this shallow-hulled, Greek-owned ship was specially designed for transporting cargo along coastlines. On the 18th of September 1971, it was travelling past Qolora Mouth when it was caught in strong winds. Empty of cargo, it was riding high on the water - a fact that the captain claimed contributed to its demise. 

Despite attempts to stabilise the ship, strong winds and currents pushed it onto the rocks, where it remained. Attempts to refloat the ship proved futile, and it remained a stark reminder of the perils of the Wild Coast for many years, soon becoming the most photographed shipwreck on the Wild Coast. 

While that’s the official version of events, others whisper of dark secrets. Local legends speak of a captain so distracted by a certain woman (apparently not his wife, even though she was among the crew members who survived the wreck) that he left a somewhat tipsy deckhand in charge of steering. Others say that, far from being empty of cargo, the Jacaranda was packed to the gills with illegal firearms that were being smuggled into South Africa to further the ANC’s fight against apartheid.

These alternative narratives have never been proven, but equally, they've never been invalidated. Instead, they continue to circulate with ever-more outlandish embellishments, keeping the memory of the Jacaranda alive long after the sea has claimed the last of its physical remains.

The Eole: A Tale of Survival and Literary Legacy

Few other shipwrecks we ride past have such controversial pasts, but some, like the Eole, have equally fascinating histories. The Eole was a French ship wrecked on 12 April 1829 after being caught in a storm. It washed up on Sandy Point, just a kilometre or two northeast of where Wavecrest Hotel now stands. 

The vessel was travelling home to Bordeaux when she got caught in a violent storm. Only eight of the 20 people onboard survived the wreck, which proved to be only the beginning of their ordeal. The first phase of their adventure saw them seeking shelter among the local Xhosa people, but it wasn’t long before they decided to seek out a more European civilization. 

Barefoot and injured, they walked for six and a half days, covering an impressive 150km that saw them travel through Butterworth - one of the few white settlements in the region - and onto Mount Coke. From there, the motley crew hopped on an ox wagon to Port Elizabeth, where they caught a boat to Cape Town. 

There they met Charles Etienne Boniface, a fellow Frenchman and prominent member of literary life in the Cape, who, upon hearing their stories, wrote a 200-page account of their experiences entitled Narrative of the Shipwreck of the French Vessel the Eole on the Coast of Kaffraria in April 1829

This narrative garnered little interest at the time of its publication and disappeared into obscurity. When it was rediscovered, it became known as a “forgotten book about a forgotten shipwreck.” The narrative was subsequently translated into English by Dr David Culpin and is now recognised as “an important contribution to existing knowledge of travel writing.

Despite it being nearly 200 years since the sinking of the Eole, the remains of the ship are still visible on the rocks beyond Wavecrest beach. Few riders will notice the pile of rusted chains nestled among the boulders, especially as they prepare for the infamous Wavecrest gallop, but there it stands as a silent testament to the ship's final moments and the harrowing journey of its survivors.

The Tragedy and Drama of the Idomene's Demise

While the Eole's tale has been immortalised in literature, many other Wild Coast wrecks are in danger of fading into obscurity. The Idomene was wrecked near Qora Mouth in 1887, is commemorated only by a simple ring of stones - a modest monument to the lives lost and a poignant reminder of the countless untold tragedies scattered along this treacherous coastline.

The Idomene, a merchant vessel transporting rice from Rangoon (now Yangon, Myanmar) to London when it tragically struck a reef off the Eastern Cape coastline. Its sturdy hull was no match for the jagged rocks beneath the surface and the following tragedy claimed not only the vessel and its valuable cargo but also the lives of 12 crew members and the ship’s captain, W. Roy. 

In the aftermath of the disaster, seven bodies were recovered from the turbulent waters and debris-strewn shore. These unfortunate souls, their journey cut short by the unforgiving coast, were laid to rest near the site of their final voyage.

Some crew members were more fortunate, and were swept to shore by what the Graham's Town Journal described as “raging waves” and “the force of a strong current.” The second mate set out to seek help and was kindly met by the under-headman, Konpani. Assistance was soon dispatched to the survivors and Konpani rallied the locals together to help an injured crew member to a nearby store, where he was attended to by the local doctor. 

According to the Journal’s report, the local Xhosa people went out of their way to show the survivors kindness and hospitality, with one even sending a boy off to buy coffee and sugar “for the white man’s breakfast.”

As most people visiting the Wild Coast will attest, this hospitality and kindness is still very much alive today.  

Although the Idomene was destroyed in the wreck, there were enough salvageable parts that it was promptly sold, fetching just over £30. This was considered a “very good figure” as there was “some useful timber” in amongst the wreckage.

The Frontier: A Mystery Wrapped in Time

Unlike the Idomene, the Frontier remains surprisingly intact, despite being wrecked some 85 years ago. Sadly, despite searching high and low, there's no documentation about this particular wreck. Confusingly enough, another ship named Frontier ran aground near Kidd's Beach in 1957 but she was declared a total loss.

The only reference to the Frontier shipwreck is on the map of the coastline displayed at Kob Inn, where the wreck's location is marked, along with the date of its demise - 1939. This lack of historical record leaves the Frontier's story open to imagination, inviting speculation about its origins and fate. The ship's most intriguing feature - the remnants of a brick wall visible among its ruins - only deepens the mystery.

Perhaps the Frontier was a unique vessel, with a brick structure designed to house specialised equipment or to insulate a specific type of cargo. Without concrete evidence, the Frontier stands as a testament to the many mysteries of the Wild Coast.

Conclusion

It’s time for this particular ride along the Wild Coast to come to an end, but I hope it’s inspired you to reflect on the long and diverse history of an area known for its dangerous seas and turbulent weather conditions.  Each wreck we've ridden past tells a unique story - from the controversial Jacaranda with its swirling rumours, to the Eole's survivors’ epic journey, and the poignant tale of the Idomene and the kindness of the Xhosa people.

The Frontier, with its mysterious brick wall and lack of historical record, reminds us that some stories of the Wild Coast may forever remain untold, leaving room for your imagination to fill in the gaps.

In the end, these shipwrecks remind us that while the sea may claim ships and lives, it cannot erase their stories. As long as riders continue to traverse these shores and hear their tales, the spirits of the Wild Coast's shipwrecks will live on - why not come and see them for yourself?

Thanks to Ciske Jans van Rensburg for the photo of the gravestones at Kob Inn

Take a Ride Through History